Everest 2009 - Our Route, Discovery Channel & What I'll Be Wearing

Click on the photos below for larger images with descriptions.

We just received information about our upcoming climb on Mount Everest and work is slow this week, so I am finally going to start filling everyone in on what is going on this year, specifically regarding the Himalayan Experience (Himex) team I joined over a year ago.

But first! The white area in the map above should say NEPAL.

Let's RECAP: Last spring, our expedition was cancelled because the Chinese closed the mountain so their climbers could carry the Olympic Torch to the summit in peace. We were going to yell and throw things at them but we never got the chance.

This past year the Chinese continued to put restrictions on other mountains, such as Cho Oyu. These restrictions make it very difficult for large international teams like Himex to climb in China. Although I have friends planning on climbing the north side of Everest because they have been told by the China Tibet Mountaineering Association that the mountain will be open, that can easily change, as it did last spring just two weeks before our arrival date. We don't want to risk another disappointing cancellation this coming spring.

So, Team Leader, Russell Brice, has been preparing himself and our team for a SOUTH side ascent in Nepal.

I prefer the north side because (1) I've been there before and this is the kind of endeavor where past experience helps, (2) climbing through the Khumbu Icefall in Nepal is like playing Russian Roulette - the Sherpas spend much more time in the Icefall, so the risks are higher for them, (3) I joined Himex because of Russell Brice and his NORTH side experience, and (4) the south side of Everest will likely see a larger number of climbers this season due to regular north side teams, like ours, switching to the Nepal side.

I'm not looking forward to performing a balancing act over steep crevasses on ladders, even though friends have told me it's "fun" (I don't think so but I hope I'm pleasantly surprised) and the Khumbu Icefall is beautiful (maybe true but it's still dangerous).

HOWEVER, the south side is intriguing because I have never been above base camp (BC) there before (other than Kala Pattar), so it will be new and exciting. I also know that Russell Brice is doing everything he can to make sure our experience in Nepal meets the same high standards that Himex provides in Tibet. Given the circumstances, we really have little choice but to climb the south side. And besides, I love Nepal! This is an unexpected opportunity for me to see TWO sides of this beautiful mountain.

We have a large team, of course. It includes last year's team plus new people for this year. The total number of climbers is 28 but that may include some who won't be joining us. There are only three women, including me, climbing Everest. The small percentage of women is not surprising. What I can tell so far is that there are some very experienced climbers and fit athletes on this team.

To accomodate our large team, and avoid having other teams throw stuff at us for being so large and on the wrong side of the mountain, Russ said our BC will not be located where the regular camp is. Our BC (and large communal tent - the White Pod!!) will be by Pumori, or Pumo Ri, located eight kilometers west of Mount Everest and about a one hour walk from the regular BC.

What else? Discovery Channel. Maybe. Maybe not. At first Russ said they would be filming us, as well as another south side team (International Mountain Guides - IMG), and then he said he wasn't sure. Something about costs and the exchange rate... Then he said that Discovery Channel (technically, Tigress Productions) will indeed be filming our climb. I've re-scheduled my facial.


Please visit my page called Room to read (or go directly to the website). I guarantee you will enjoy learning about this incredible organization. The founder, John Wood, is a friend from San Francisco. Like Greg Mortenson (Three Cups of Tea) and the Central Asia Institute, John and his team at Room to Read are doing something EXTRAORDINARY!

This is going to be very different from what I experienced in 2007. Many of you know it has been a challenge keeping my health and fitness up this past year, but right now I feel confident that I'll be ready. Please wish me luck because I will take whatever help and good vibes I can get!

That's all for now. Thanks for tuning in.

Oh! My outfit! This is sort of an inside joke but I'll be wearing a sky blue Feathered Friends down suit this spring that actually fits me (in 2007 I could pull my down suit a foot over my head), along with some tomato red Millet boots - somewhat patriotic colors, not very slimming. If anyone wants to buy a size small, red, Mountain Hardwear down suit, please contact me (only worn 5 days and has experience above 28,000 feet - good price).

The plane from San Francisco takes off on March 25.

(Sorry, you can't click on this photo for a bigger image.)